In Nozawa Onsen, each season is a sight to behold. The cherry blossoms bloom in spring, turning the village into a pink-petal sea. During summer, the rice paddies in the valley project a vibrant green, creating a sense of vitality and growth. And in autumn, the leaves in the surrounding mountains transform into various shades of red and gold, reminding us of the transience of life and the beauty of impermanence. However, it is the winter in Nozawa that reigns supreme.
It seems that the snow falls silently in Nozawa Onsen, coating the narrow streets and wooden buildings with a heavy blanket of white. As a photographer in Japan, I find myself drawn to this quaint village in the northern part of Nagano Prefecture. Ice-coated details beg to be photographed. Blue hues appear deeper. Minimal compositions can be found in abundance. Yet, there is much more to Nozawa than just its visual appeal. Here in Nozawa, there is a mix of tradition, modernity, and nature that seamlessly comes together to create a scene that is everything a winter lover could ask for.
The town’s namesake tells just as much about Nozawa as anything else. Nozawa Onsen is a place where hot springs bubble up from the earth, providing a source of relaxation and healing for those who can withstand the geothermal scorch. Locals take pride in preserving this culture, with 13 public hot springs available for visitors to enjoy.
Today, however, Nozawa Onsen is less known for its hot springs than for being a paradise for winter sports lovers. Offering more than 50 kilometers of runs that are suitable for a range of skill levels, Nozawa’s slopes are a playground for skiers and snowboarders alike. From multiple gondolas and swaying lifts, visitors are offered panoramic views of the surrounding mountains, creating a sense of awe and wonder.
After a day on the slopes, I am always ready to indulge in Nozawa’s growing culinary scene. Whether an Abunai from Genki Burger, or a sweet ringo oyaki at St. Anton Haus, I head into Nozawa village knowing that my belly will soon be full.
For sure, Nozawa Onsen is a place with natural beauty and rich culture. In Nozawa Onsen, I have found a sense of peace and tranquility that is rare in any ski town worldwide. Nozawa has a way of slowing down time and allowing us to appreciate the beauty of the present moment. Considering this, Nozawa Onsen should be added to any Japan-based itinerary.
All images shot on assignment for The New York Times.
